AYESHA RASCOE, HOST:
The Democratic Republic of Congo is covered in rainforest and savannah, but years of armed conflict and government neglect have taken their toll. Poachers and militia groups often roam freely in the country's wilderness areas. But Upemba National Park in the southeast is fighting back. It's home to Congo's last wild herd of zebras, and park authorities are overseeing a gradual recovery of animal populations. Emmet Livingstone reports.
UNIDENTIFIED GROUP: (Singing in non-English language).
EMMET LIVINGSTONE, BYLINE: These are the rangers who stand on the front line, essential to the future of one of the DRC's greatest national parks. Proud and committed, they tell us they want to see Upemba Park return to its former glory.
(SOUNDBITE OF CRICKETS CHIRPING)
LIVINGSTONE: Upemba was once a fairy-tale wilderness, with tens of thousands of elephants roaming the park, as well as populations of lions and other large fauna. But most of the animals have been hunted to near-extinction, a trend turbocharged during Congo's civil wars in the 1990s, when a rebel group known as Bakata Katanga took refuge in Upemba. State institutions also collapsed, and unpaid rangers turned to poaching to support themselves. Now a group of scientists also hope to play their part, conducting the first biodiversity field survey in Upemba since the Belgian colonial era.
(SOUNDBITE OF BIRDS SINGING)
LIVINGSTONE: They're hoping to assess how the park is faring after decades of poaching and conflict.
(SOUNDBITE OF FOOTSTEPS)
LIVINGSTONE: In the first light, in the highlands of Upemba, the scientists fumble their way out of their tents and set off to check camera traps, sample water and to collect butterflies. It's rough work.
(SOUNDBITE OF WATER SPLASHING)
CHAD KEATES: Now there's leeches on me.
LIVINGSTONE: Chad Keates, the principal scientist for the South African organization Hankuzi Expeditions, spends his morning splashing around a swamp, occasionally stopping to pull leeches from his legs.
KEATES: Having an idea of what lives in the water can be a very, very valuable thing to know, especially since many of these groups, we know, actually only exist in areas where the water's clean.
LIVINGSTONE: The unique ecosystem not only feeds into the Congo River Basin but is also home to several endemic plant and butterfly species. The results of the biodiversity survey, which are expected before the end of the year, can strengthen the case that Upemba, which is relatively unknown internationally, is worth protecting. Recent efforts to bolster the small ranger force are paying off, but insecurity remains a real concern. Suspected Bakata Katanga rebels who are still active have killed two rangers this year.
SUZUKI: (Non-English language spoken).
LIVINGSTONE: Overlooking the rolling hills from the heights of Lusinga, a ranger known only as Suzuki describes how the rebels paint their faces white and wear red bandanas when they attack. The terrifying sight can make you panic and flee, he says. Suzuki himself survived a militia attack in January.
UNIDENTIFIED GROUP: (Chanting in non-English language).
LIVINGSTONE: In response to insecurity, the park plans to boost its ranger force from 200 to 500 members over the next five years.
UNIDENTIFIED GROUP: (Singing in non-English language).
LIVINGSTONE: But this sunset lament from the usually taciturn guards serves as a reminder that they are still on the front line, risking their lives.
UNIDENTIFIED GROUP: (Singing in non-English language).
LIVINGSTONE: One of their comrades has been shot dead in a militia attack.
UNIDENTIFIED GROUP: (Singing in non-English language).
LIVINGSTONE: They wait in the failing light to see his body returned to base camp one last time and pay their respects.
UNIDENTIFIED GROUP: (Singing in non-English language).
LIVINGSTONE: For NPR News, I'm Emmet Livingstone in Upemba National Park.
UNIDENTIFIED GROUP: (Singing in non-English language). Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.
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